Sunday we arrived. The air was warm and we were in high spirits. We'd left Austin, it's bats, it's Music, it's people and it's food. I'll look back on all of the people I met in Austin with fond memories, they were fucking nice people.
The air closed my breath as soon as we stepped off the plane. It's pretty humid here in Florida.
"Can you take us to 236 9th street, South beach please mate?"
"Yeah, yeah. Anywhere you wanna go" The cabbie replies.
We dumped our bags in the car and my brother said he was glad to be on terra firma. Flying ain't nice sometimes.
The rain lashed. 5 minutes.
The rain fell. 10 minutes.
The rain poured. 20 minutes.
"How has the weather been here the last few days mate?" I politely ask the cab driver, with a broad smile on my face.
"Where you wanna go?" He says
"No, the weather. How has the weather been here?" I reply
"Where you wanna go?"
"The weather. Has it been sunny?"
" Where you wanna go? Don't talk to me about the weather. I don't watch the news. Where you wanna go?"
What a fucking absurd response.
My brother and I began laughing uncontrollably at our confused cab driver, and he carried on driving.
The rain stopped. 30 minutes.
"Where is this place?" Our cab driver asked. I think he suffers a medical condition, not too dissimilar to Ronald Reagan.
"236 9th street" I emphatically reply.
"Where is that?"
"We dont know!"
"What's the address?"
"
236 9th street!"
This continued for another ten minutes before I told the driver to drop us off right away. Which he did. After 5 minutes.
What a fucking joker.
We got another cab, driven by a real person, and everything was back to normal.
Unfortunately, things are rarely normal in Miami, and if they appear normal, you don't wait long for them to mutate into a bewildering mess.
We walked into the hostel, and were greeted by a stand by/understudy for a character in the Bill and Ted movies.
"Hey dudes! You checking in?"
"Yeah mate"
"Great bro, can I see your id's and have your names please"
"Sure"
I looked around at the lobby. there were computers and people sat on stools. Sting was playing on the hi-fi and everyone seemed happy.
Keanu wrote our names in the book and totalled the room charge.
I handed him my credit card and he went to swipe it. Then he paused, turned around and said this.
"Shit, I forgot to add the south beach tax dude!"
South beach tax! Are you fucking kidding me! I looked at Marc and he shrugged. Marc get's more annoyed by this sort of shit than me, so I think he was avoiding the imminent word vomit that was struggling to escape him.
"It's an extra 13 per cent dude"
"Right, fuck it. Whatever" Was my reply.
I handed him my credit card and he went to swipe it. Then he paused, turned around and said this.
"Shit, I forgot to add the credit card tax dude!"
"And what the fuck is that for?" I said sharply
"Oh, it's an extra five per cent dude, cos y'know, you're using a credit card"
And you are using the last five per cent of my fucking patience, you leather faced, dope smoking, sandal wearing, surf board carrying, reggae listening, school failing, tourist mugging piece of shit.
"Do you know what? Just fucking do it. Just get on with it" I said.
By this point I was ready to turn around to everyone in the lobby and scream so hard I'd shit myself, but I held back. We grabbed the keys and went and settled in our grimy little room.
My ass hurt a little after being butt raped so hard by the snotty little cunt in the lobby, but I put it out of mind, or tried to at least.
We moaned to our room mate about the hostel and he told tales of his experiences here too. Funny, they were the same. Cunts. Absolute cunts. cunts cunts cunts cunts.
Marc and I went for a walk and got some food. We ate seafood paella. It was expensive, but it was fucking beautiful. Lobster, oysters, baby squid, lock, stock, the fucking lot. We walked past Gianni Versace's house and I thought about the day he died. I remember watching it on the news. An aerial view of the steps to his house, shot from a helicopter. Proper American style. I remember the fashion world mourning over him. I didn't mourn over him. I didn't know him. And I don't wear ladies clothes. Or homosexual clothes. It was still nice to see though. Every year a huge party is held at his house. I thought about how many people get wasted and take photos of their mates, face down on the steps. Loads I bet.
The first night was a relaxed affair, we grabbed beers and saw ladies with enormous breasts and men with rippling muscles. We walked home and witnessed the aftermath of a shooting near the hostel. That made me feel really safe. Really welcoming that. I'd already begun developing a fear.
Miami South Beach has a sinister undercurrent, one that is the pulse of this faded town. The people are parasites, every single one of them. They live for themselves and no one else. They're out for a quick buck and a good time. I can't deal with this well at all. It's something I've hard to learn about myself this week, whilst being here. I've never experienced such a melting pot of shallow, gaudy, vacuous beings in my entire life. South beach is like a ten mile catwalk. A catwalk that struts and shakes every single thing I despise about this country and modern culture.
Every girl I have met is a singer, an actress or a model. This I sincerely doubt. I've been serenaded by two girls since being here, both with atrocious singing voices. One girl at the second hostel I've stayed at, told me she was a model. She told me she gets 2,000 dollars a week. I suppose that justifies why she's living in a hostel. I asked who she has modelled for and she told me Cavalli, Gaultier and England's own Vivienne Westwood. I feigned shock and encouraged her to keep lying. When she went to the toilet, her friend told me that she is, in fact, a nude model for local Miami smut. I didn't know who to feel the more sorry for, the liar, or her bitchy mate.
The guys here are dominated by one group, a group that owe a lot of their personality traits to movies with Jean Claude Van-Damme as the lead role, though you do meet a few with some trace of brains. They're clearly more fans of Steven Seagal. They ponce down the road with plastic ladies on their arm, chewing gum. If your male and you're not one of these men, you're either a fat cuban, or a dope peddling beach bum.
I'm here for a reason though, and this is what kept me here.
The Winter Music Conference happens once a year. For one week, South Beach becomes abuzz with Dance Music fans, talent and industry professionals, all here to have a good time, talk 'business' which I translate as 'bullshit' and hold seminars. I was intrigued about these conference shenannigans, so decided to come this year. In fairness, I haven't been disappointed, and this is the sole positive I can bring from my time in Florida.
The first couple of days were spent with my brother, strolling the beach in the day, and partying at night. We spent time with a funny as fuck Irish man named David and saw some good Music. We caught up with Andrea, the girl I met in Austin and we partied with her for a night. Drop the Lime and others plied us with fun, and Indra lounge plied us with fucking expensive beer. I don't tip in Miami, because I don't tip for a ten dollar bottle of beer. And I don't tip cunts.
My days in the conference have been worthwhile. I've met lots of people listened to some interesting new Music. I learned that Paul Van Dyk is actually a fucking top bloke, very fucking witty and we are in agreement that Europe kicks the shit out of America. It's just a shame he plays such waff Music. I saw some new hardware that made me want to squeal like a little girl, and some audio visual software that made my brain hurt.
I perched on a sun lounger by the pool in the resort, and watched the DJ spin off. I was thoroughly unimpressed, most notably with a girl called DJ Tickles or some bullshit name, from London. She mixed poorly, she mixed Music that has an incessant drive, that idiots dance to, with lots of loud snare drums and intensely boring basslines. It's called drum and bass, and it fucking sucks. When I was sixteen I'd listen to drum and bass mixtapes with fervent glee, hearing large black men shout bibby-dibby-ribby-jibby-fibby-wibbly-wobbly down a microphone. I thought it was the pinnacle of good dance Music. I'm glad those days are gone.
I got given a ticket to the International Dance Music Awards.
I didn't go.
I don't think anyone went.
My bro and I wiped sweat from our brows and complained about Miami. We trotted down sidewalks, sick of the sight of silicon and in need of stimulation. We queued for a stupid amount of time to see the same dj we saw in Austin, Deadmau5. Deadmau5 is a talented producer, and his set in Austin was top notch. Unfortunately, at BED in Miami, he was outrageously boring. The club was full of people lying on beds, drinking bottle serves of grey goose and talking about nothing. Theoretically, it's impossible to talk about nothing, in the same way it's impossible to be a size zero, though Miami defies the odds and is full of people talking about nothing. Baffling.
Deadmau5 arrived in a bright red suit, and that made me smile. He opened with a remix of his own tune 'the reward is cheese' and Daft Punk's 'Harder Better Faster Stronger'. It's a nice mix, but if I hear one more DJ using ableton lay that Daft Punk tune over a breakdown, I'm going to throw my drink at them. Unfortunately, that was the hghlight, as soon as he brought in the next tune, it went wrong. His beat matching was shoddy and he was playing absolute bullshit tunes. Perhaps he was catering to the Miami crowd, I don't know, we left shortly after the first hour.
The sun has gotten progressively hotter over the week, and the conference was proving more difficult to get to every day, the combination of staying up late and waking in the heat really takes it out of you. I somehow have managed to get to everything I wanted to though and that pleases me. I have met people who are interested in me playing in their nightclubs, and people who have taught me a lot about things I know nothing about. Legal things. Money things. Music things. Bullshit things.
My brother left me in the stark, bright light of day and I felt depressed. I had a current of anxiety running through me, and had done for a couple of days. It's Miami. I felt on the verge of some sort of panic attack, though managed to reign it in by downing a beer and giving myself a good talking to. I saw my brother drive away in the cab and I prepared to check into a different hostel.
Luckily, the hostel is full of English people. For the first time on this trip I was delighted to meet fellow Brits. Some are from Barnsley, that's even better. A very very close friend of mine was from Barnsley, we lived together in a room. We had beds side by side at an institution that makes you practice classical Music for a ridiculous number of hours per day. His name was Oliver. He made me laugh uncontrollably. He kept me sane for the whole time I was at Chetham's, and I think about him every fucking day. His name is written across my stomach, and no matter how hard I rub, it'll never come off. Me and Oli always planned to come to the states, and I think if he was with me here now, everything may have been a little bit easier.He would have laughed at all these people strolling by, he had a knack for subtly placing his tongue in his cheek.
I chatted to my new Yorkshire pals, and we became animated. The boys had shaved heads and looked English, and the girls looked so English it's untrue. I forgot that English look, it was so relaxing to be around them. We spoke about football, music and jobs. I felt safe.
I told the Yorkshire posse I would see them later and headed to the conference. I met a man who has signed me up to a promotions company. It's a really good idea and the website is very user friendly. It allows you to host events and promote all your goings on in one easy package. You can create an event on their website, and they distribute it across all of you contacts and social networking sites in one swoop. The guy was very young, though all these internet bods are these days, he had a great character and we joked about Miami. I was beginning to feel a lot better.
I got back to the hostel and took a shower. I don't have a towel because someone who i envisage to resemble Gollum has stolen both my towels. What sort of person steals dirty towels? Incredible. Considering I have a kaoss pad in my bag.......
I put on my finest clothes and headed to Chocolate's, a venue in town. I was playing there. I took my laptop and headphones and trundled down the road. I walked in and there was Andy, the man who promoted the event and got me on the setlist. I grabbed a comlimentary beer and had a dance. There were people dancing and laughing. It was a fun vibe.
I set up and started to mix. I was only playing for 45 minutes so I went in head first with electro house and just piled loads of shit on top of each other. The crowd enjoyed it a great deal and so did I. I used more effects than were necessary, but I was having lots of fun. I played around with a shit ton of new tunes I bought on beatport this week. For the last ten minutes must have mixed about six tunes. Andy asked me if I wanted to stay for a party later on, but I had more pressing matters.
I headed for Mansion. I received a reminder from a man named George back home to go, and off I went. Lot's of people have told me to go see certain things this week, though George has taste in Music similar to me, so I'd rather take his advice. Thanks George.
The queue stretched five blocks. "What the fuck....." I whispered to myself.
There was a group of scantily clad young girls claiming they were on the guest list, though the man on the door was having none of it.
"You queue like everybody else. Sixty dollars to get in" He said in a French accent.
The girls got angry and started being racist towards him. He turned away from them.
I've noticed this behaviour a lot in Miami and I don't like it, though in truth I didn't want to queue and was gagging to get inside.
"Excusez-moi monsieur" I said.
The man turned around, smiled at me and came straight over.
I'm not as good at French as I was, though I can squeeze out a conversation, so I seized the opportunity. I politely asked him in French if there was any way I could get in without having to queue, considering I was on my own and I had a delegates badge. He was taken aback by the effort I had made, and was thoroughly overjoyed to talk in his native tongue. I think he's been here a while now.
"Of course" he said. He opened the barrier and the front door and I waltzed in. I felt good and a complete nobhead at the same time.
I went to the bar and bought my 10 dollar beer, left no tip and headed for the dance floor.
Mansion is a good club. It's massive. It has quite tasteful, large chandeliers hanging from the ceiling and an impressive sound system. I stood on the balcony, sipped a beer, smoked a fag, tapped my foot and watched thousands of people having a great time. I saw girls moving on poles, on the bar and on their boyfriends shoulders. I saw a man fall over.
I headed down to the dancefloor in time for Sasha and Digweed. I was excited. Sasha and Digweed are two people that know how to turn it on, every single time.
Digweed came out and began his evening. I danced buck wild with a Japanese guy who I thought was a nice guy, until he stole my sunglasses.
I had my sunglasses in my back pocket, as I'd forgotten to leave them at the hostel, and I wasn't prepared to wear shades in a club. Like a cunt. I was dancing in front of my Japanese companion when I felt my sunglasses were missing. I turned around to senor, and asked him if he'd seen my sunglasses.
"Mate have you seen a pair of white sunglasses?" I asked
"Erm......No, no I haven't" he replied
I knew he had them so I asked him again, then he made the foolish mistake of quickly trying to put them in his pocket, right.in.front.of.my.fucking.eyes.
"I don't ha your sunglass" he said
"Right. Ok" I said.
I turned around and thought about just letting him keep them, though the fact that I'd seen them go from behind his back into his pocket annoyed me, so I turned around and punched him in the leg. If he's going to keep my sunglasses, I'd rather they were broken. Cunt.
I moved further towards the stage, to the right by the air conditioning. I found the perfect spot, and that's where I stayed. Digweed played a rip roaring techy set, and I listened to a lot of tunes that are currently all over my Ableton screen. I chain smoked cigarettes and felt good to be alone. I sipped the last of my beer that had lasted me two and a half hours, and headed to the bar. On the way I was pushed into someone, I pushed someone into someone and pushed my way to the bar.
On my return to the sweet spot I saw a little bald head under Digweed's armpit and that made me smile a bit more. I was now surrounded by a group of Londoners. They were a rowdy bunch, and they all had their hands in the air. I knew they from London because they had cockney accents, cockney accents screaming "Sasha!" at the tops of their voices.
The atmosphere was fucking great in Mansion and the Music was to blame. Sasha laid a laptop down and took over from Digweed. He played progressive house in a very aggressive manner from the start. Every build up was buttered with Ableton's stock effects. I could hear lots of beat repeat, flange verb and filter delay. Fucking perfect for creating a wily, intense sound. Manipulation of sounds in Ableton can make even the most droll progressive Music sound fucking intense. I fucking love it.
The night continued in this manner and it appeased all of my anxieties concerning the town outside. I trotted back to the hostel at sunrise in a fucking good mood.
I woke up at twelve and rushed to the hotel wearing the same clothes as the night before.
I sat in on two remix and editing workshops and learnt a lot of interesting tips from producers. They played a lot of interesting Music, Music I wouldn't normally listen to, and displayed a real passion for what they do. I thought about how much effort they put into their work, I admire that. I don't think i can apply myself to anything with such verve. The Swedish house producer Stonebridge gave a link to a website that has great samples. Stonebridge produces Music that I'm not into, so I was wary of checking it out, but it was a good recommendation.
I got back to the hostel and had a mix. My hair was wiry and large from the humidity. I stank of sweat and was hungry. I thought about going home. Back to my friends and family. Back to my piano. Back to England. Back to being able to practice Music through speakers and record something again. I thought about my friends again. I thought about how much money I've spent and how I do actually miss having a job. I thought about changing my flight home.
I did.
I'm leaving Miami. I'm going home.
I went to a club called Studio A and saw two other British Dj's. James Zabiela and Nic Fanciulli. I posted a link to one of their mixes on this blog back in January. They're very talented and I had a great time. I left relatively early and went back to the hostel.
I sat next to two English boys from London. We drank beer and talked. We went out and talked more. We drank beer more. We went to an abismal funky house night that they wanted to go to. Then we came back.
Im going to check into another hostel, drop my bag and go to the Ultra Music Festival. I think I'll see Sasha and Digweed again. Get me in the mood for going home.